The German Christmas markets, and how they differ from each other

Germany invented this, and it still does it better than anywhere. But “a German Christmas market” is not a single thing, and the big-name markets differ from each other more than the photographs suggest.

Nuremberg: the benchmark

Nuremberg Christkindlesmarkt is the one every other market is measured against, and it is deliberately conservative. The 168 stalls are uniform wooden huts with red-and-white striped roofs, and the market authority polices what may be sold — no mass-produced tat, no plastic. It is opened by the Christkind, a local girl elected every two years, reciting a prologue from the church balcony.

Eat the Rostbratwurst, three to a roll, and the Elisenlebkuchen. Expect crowds; this is among the most visited markets in Europe.

Dresden: the oldest

Dresden Striezelmarkt has been running since 1434, which makes it Germany’s oldest. It takes its name from Striezel, the early word for the fruited loaf now sold worldwide as Dresden Stollen, and the Stollenfest parades a giant cake through the city on the second Saturday of Advent.

The distinguishing feature is the woodcraft. The Erzgebirge mountains south of Dresden are where nutcrackers, candle arches and Christmas pyramids actually come from, and the quality on sale here is a long way above the souvenir versions elsewhere.

Cologne: several markets, one walk

Cologne is the easiest of the great markets to reach — the cathedral is beside the station and the market is beside the cathedral. What makes the city worth a day rather than an hour is that it runs several distinct markets within walking distance: the cathedral one, the Alter Markt in the old town, Neumarkt, and the harbour.

Note the one quirk: Cologne closes for Totensonntag, the Sunday of the dead, in late November. Turn up that day and you will find the square shut.

What they share

Free entry, universally. Mugs on deposit — see our guide to how the deposit works. Cash preferred at a good number of stalls. And closing dates on 23 or 24 December at the great majority, which is the single most important thing to check if you are planning a trip between Christmas and New Year.

Where to look beyond the famous three

The well-known markets are well known for good reason, but Germany has hundreds. Munich, Stuttgart, Leipzig, Erfurt, Rothenburg and Heidelberg all run substantial ones, and smaller towns frequently do a better job of feeling like a local event rather than a tourist attraction.

We are building this out steadily — see everything we currently cover in Germany, and if your favourite is missing, tell us about it.