Cologne Cathedral Christmas Market

Cologne’s advantage is geography. The cathedral is directly beside the main station, and the market is directly beside the cathedral, which means you can step off an international train and be holding a Glühwein within five minutes. Few great markets are that easy.

Not one market but several

The cathedral market on Roncalliplatz is the famous one, with over 140 stalls under the twin spires and a very large tree. But Cologne’s real strength is that it runs a cluster of distinct markets within walking distance of one another, each with its own character:

• Alter Markt — the “Market of Angels”, in the old town square, more traditional and family-oriented.
• Neumarkt — the Angel’s Market, larger and busier.
• Rudolfplatz — a fairytale theme, built around the medieval Hahnentor gate.
• The harbour market at the Chocolate Museum, with a maritime theme.

A stroll taking in three or four of them is a proper day out, and the city runs a Christmas tram between several sites.

What to eat and drink

Cologne is Kölsch country, and the local beer is served in the small 200ml glasses year round. On the markets, look for Reibekuchen — fried potato pancakes with apple sauce — which are a Rhineland institution, along with Glühwein, hot Feuerzangenbowle and roasted chestnuts.

Getting there

Köln Hauptbahnhof is on the high-speed network with direct trains from Brussels, Paris and Amsterdam, which makes Cologne the most practical first stop on a European market trip from London by rail.

The thing that catches people out

The market closes for Totensonntag, the Protestant day of the dead, in late November. It is one specific Sunday, it is not always obvious from listings sites, and people do arrive to find the square shut. Check the official dates before booking a weekend around it. The market also finishes on 23 December rather than Christmas Eve.