Salzburg Christkindlmarkt

Salzburg’s market occupies the two linked squares at the heart of the old town — Domplatz, in front of the cathedral, and Residenzplatz beside it — with the Hohensalzburg fortress lit on the ridge above. Records of an Advent market here go back to the late fifteenth century, which makes it one of the oldest in the German-speaking world.

The setting does the work

Salzburg’s old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and almost entirely Baroque, which gives the market an enclosed, stage-set quality that larger city markets cannot match. The cathedral dome on one side, the Residenz on the other, and the fortress above make it one of the most photographed markets in Europe.

What to look for

The craft emphasis is strong: nativity figures and complete cribs, hand-blown glass, wrought iron, beeswax candles and the straw stars that are an Alpine tradition. The food is Austrian rather than German — Bosna sausage with curry and onions, Kiachl (fried dough with sauerkraut or jam), Bratapfel baked apples, and Punsch rather than Glühwein as the default drink.

The Salzburger Adventsingen, a long-running Advent concert tradition of folk song and nativity play, runs in the Festspielhaus during the market and is a genuinely different experience from the square outside.

The other two markets

Salzburg has two further markets worth the trip. The Hohensalzburg fortress market is held in the castle courtyard, reached by funicular, and is small but memorable. Hellbrunn Advent Magic, in the grounds of the palace just outside the city, is the family option, with a large illuminated setting and a nativity display.

Getting there

Salzburg Hauptbahnhof is about twenty minutes’ walk or a short bus ride from the old town, and the city is on the main line between Munich and Vienna, which makes it an easy addition to a rail trip. Note that the old town is largely pedestrianised and the cobbles are uneven.

When to go

It runs unusually late, to 1 January, so it is one of the few markets still open between Christmas and New Year. Weekday afternoons are best; Salzburg is a small city and December weekends fill it completely.